| www.johngill.net John Gill's Website  A Climbing Memoir: 1953 - 2008 |
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| Revised on August 26, 2017 |
| Most Recent Additions/Revisions |
| New
link to an interview in 2001 and Gill exercises at age 80+ |
The Origins of Bouldering "The past is a foreign country: they do things differently there." - The Go-Between by L. P. Hartley |
B1.
Overview,
Early British Boulderers B2. Oscar Eckenstein B3. Archer Thomson, A. Crowley, O. G. Jones B3.1 Aleister Crowley's 1898 Bouldering Guide B3.2 Gash Rock First Ascent - O. G. Jones B4. More Early British Bouldering B5. Joe Brown Conversation B5.1 Early Scottish Bouldering B6. Allain/Fontainebleau, Early Australian Bouldering B6.1 Early German and Dolomite Bouldering B7. Early American Bouldering 1 B8. American Bouldering 2 B9. American Bouldering 3 |
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Click on the photo above to see the author bouldering at age 45 |
 This photo was taken in 2007.
To watch the old man exercising at the age of 75, Filmed in September, 2012 Click on this photo |
 2013 : Exercising at age 76 Click Here |
Click
on the
image above to see the latest video of John Gill doing a few
exercises at age
80+.
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|
by David Lloyd
2001
Interview & Exercises at
age 64 |
 A 1992 Ascent of the Thimble
Click on Photo |
To avoid rating systems confusion, I shall use the American Decimal System (5.0 - 5.15?) to describe the difficulty of both boulder problems and longer climbs. It will be assumed the rating of a move or sequence of moves are the same if they are 10 feet off the ground or 1,000 feet. I will also use Sherman's V-rating when appropriate. Widely-spread historical benchmarks are easier to compare with the use of only one or two systems. I would like to thank Kerwin Klein of UC-Berkeley and Colin Wells for information about the history of European bouldering, John Sherman for historical information from his excellent book Stone Crusade , Bob & Bonnie Kamps, Ted Cais, Curt Shannon, and Simon Panton for photos, Michael Fain , John Stannard, Pat Ament ,Phil Gleason, and Ted Cais for contributed articles, Randy Burks for assistance in translation, Karsten Kurz for assistance regarding Saxony climbing, Jiří Tlamsa for an article on rope climbing in the Czech Republic, Predrag Miletic for comments about chinning, Sylvain Jouty for historical information. Thanks, in addition, to Bridget Burke, ex-Director of the Henry S. Hall, Jr. American Alpine Club Library and to Gary Landeck, current Director, and to Yvonne Sibbald of the Alpine Club Library. |
The following are links to recent internet interviews: Climbing.lu Desnivel.com seclimbers.org theshortspan.com palatinum.info Flash Interview The author's biography is: John Gill: Master of Rock by Pat Ament 1st ed.(1977) 2nd ed.(1991) 3rd ed.(1998) Japanese ed. Italian ed. Stone Crusade by John Sherman contains additional biographical material. |
| Art by Pamela Gill |
| Books by William R. Bell |
| WWW.johngill.net Average number of hits of site files / month: 150,000 |
