John Gill's Website
A Climbing Memoir: 1953 - 2008
|Revised on June 3, 2015
|Most Recent Additions/Revisions|
|ROCK & SNOW (Spring 2015) Article
|Climbing Magazine (September 2003) Quick Click recommendation of this site|
The Origins of
"The past is a foreign country: they do things differently there." - The Go-Between by L. P. Hartley
Early British Boulderers
B2. Oscar Eckenstein
B3. Archer Thomson, A. Crowley, O. G. Jones
B3.1 Aleister Crowley's 1898 Bouldering Guide
B3.2 Gash Rock First Ascent - O. G. Jones
B4. More Early British Bouldering
B5. Joe Brown Conversation
B5.1 Early Scottish Bouldering
B6. Allain/Fontainebleau, Early Australian Bouldering
B6.1 Early German and Dolomite Bouldering
B7. Early American Bouldering 1
B8. American Bouldering 2
B9. American Bouldering 3
Pioneer Rock Climbers
"The great achievements of the past were the adventures of the past . . . Only the adventurous can understand the greatness of the past."
- Alfred North Whitehead
& Elbsandsteingebirge, the Dolomites
H1. Saxony, Oliver Perry Smith
H2. O. Perry-Smith, R. Fehrmann Technique, Difficulty, Ethics
H2.1 Early Barbarine Postcard
H3. Perry-Smith. Fehrmann. Difficulty & Risk
H3.1 Perry-Smith Continued
H4. Kreuzturm, Falkenstein, Paul Illmer
H4.1 Mönchstein, Teufelsturm
H5. Wehlturm, Ernst-Schulze-Stein, Schrammtorwächter
H5.1 Vodere Gans, Kleiner Wehlturm, Friction climbing
H5.1a Elbridge Herron Photos
H5.2 1904 Club, Mystery Climber, Dr. Mabuse, Snake Charmer
H5.3 Misc. Images from Elbsandstein/Leipzig - Felix Simon
H5.4 Felix Simon in Action
H5.5 The Dolomites - Early Years
H6. Lake Dist. Abraham Bros. H. Smith, Napes Needle
H6.1 Wasdale Head 1893, Pen-Y-Gwyrd 1897, Sepulchre 1920s
H7. Stanage Edge, Brassington, Lliwedd, Barn Door Traverse
H8. Bhasteir Tooth, Raeburn, Scafell, S. Herford, M. Dalton
H8.1 Claude E. Benson - Words and Photos
H8.2 Reverend James Jackson: Patriarch of the Pillarites
H9. British Ladies: Pat Kelly, Dorothy Pilley
"Up to that time my experience with guides had not been fortunate" -
Edward Whymper ca 1860
Blanc 1786 - 1827
A2. Hugi on the Jungfrau 1820s
A2.1 Mer de Glace 1870
A2.2 Glacier Parties 1860s
A3. Whymper's Matterhorn1865
A4. Shelters, 1870s
"Fundamental progress has to do with the reinterpretation of basic ideas."
- Alfred North Whitehead
G2. Climbing in Early Gymnastics. GutsMuths/Jahn
G3. Jahn's Apparatus: Einbaum, Zweibaum, Vierbaum
G4. Hasenheide Turnplatz. Basel Turnplatz
G5. Ladders : 1700s to 2004 and Beyond
G6. Masts, Poles, Ropes. Dynamics.
G7. 19th Century Turnplatz Illustrations
G8. 19th Century Military Gymnastics Illustrations
G9. Early Climbing Wall. Acrobats of the Early 1800s
G10. Late Victorians. Gymnastik fur Bergsteiger.
G11. The Rope Climb
G12. Still Rings: History, Ratings, Personal Involvement
G13. Rock Climbers who were Gymnasts
|Competitive Rope Climbing
"The history of art is the history of revivals"
- Samuel Butler
Antecedents of the Sport
R2. Description of the Former Event
R3. History of Competitions Prior to 1963
R4. Resurrection / Personal Involvement
R5. The Rope Climb in the Czech Rep.
R6. 2005 Contests in the Czech Republic
Chin-ups, Pull-ups, Levers, and Crosses
"I think I'll call it 'climber's elbow'"- the author, suffering the injury in 1969
HP. Historical Performances . . .
A survey of a number of climbing - related, historical
suspended bodyweight feats, beginning in the mid 1800s.
One-arm chin-ups and pull-ups, one-finger chin-ups, etc.
"A person is always startled when he hears himself seriously called an old man for the first time."
- Oliver Wendell Holmes
C1.1 Alternatives to Climbing: Gymnastics.
C2. A Golden Age. Bouldering Ratings.
C3. Bouldering, Kinesthetics Dynamics First V8 & V9
C3.1 Ethereal Bouldering No-Hands Problems
C4. Bouldering Photos.Bouldering companions
C5. Early Attitudes. Buildering Slacklining
C6. Occasional Hard Problem. Traditional Roots
C7. Soloing. Thimble. Injuries & Old Age.
C8. Interviews & Profiles. Writings. Links.
C9. Academic Career
"A mathematician is a machine for converting caffeine into theorems"
Paul Erdos or Alfréd Rényi
M2. Complex Dynamics: exp(z), cos(z), z^2+i, z+1/z
M3. Infinitesimals. Dirac Delta Function
M4. Diagonal Paradox, Short line of infinite length
M5. Power Series Graphics
M6. Continued Fractions Graphics - analytics 1
M7. Continued Fractions Graphics - analytics 2
M8. JL's Hilbert Space
Elementary Mathematical Research Notes
| John Gill Mathematics Collection
Click on the photo above to see the author bouldering at age 45
This photo was taken in 2007.
To watch the old man exercising
at the age of 75,
Filmed in September, 2012
Click on this photo
2013 : Exercising at age 76
A 1992 Ascent of the Thimble
Click on Photo
To avoid rating systems confusion, I shall use the American Decimal System (5.0 - 5.15?) to describe the difficulty of both boulder problems and longer climbs. It will be assumed the rating of a move or sequence of moves are the same if they are 10 feet off the ground or 1,000 feet. I will also use Sherman's V-rating when appropriate. Widely-spread historical benchmarks are easier to compare with the use of only one or two systems.
I would like to thank Kerwin Klein of UC-Berkeley and Colin Wells for information about the history of European bouldering, John Sherman for historical information from his excellent book Stone Crusade , Bob & Bonnie Kamps, Ted Cais, Curt Shannon, and Simon Panton for photos, Michael Fain , John Stannard, Pat Ament ,Phil Gleason, and Ted Cais for contributed articles, Randy Burks for assistance in translation, Karsten Kurz for assistance regarding Saxony climbing, Jiří Tlamsa for an article on rope climbing in the Czech Republic, Predrag Miletic for comments about chinning, Sylvain Jouty for historical information.
Thanks, in addition, to Bridget Burke, ex-Director of the Henry S. Hall, Jr. American Alpine Club Library and to Gary Landeck, current Director, and to Yvonne Sibbald of the Alpine Club Library.
The following are links to recent internet interviews:
The author's biography is: John Gill: Master of Rock by Pat Ament
Stone Crusade by John Sherman contains additional biographical material.
|Art by Pamela Gill|
|Books by William R. Bell|
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